St Emilion is unique. Unique in that its medieval labyrinth of tiny streets and alleys can still be roamed with incredulous anticipation. Unique in that its Romanesque cloisters, cellars and churches can still be visited, touched and marvelled at. Finally, and most significantly, unique in that it is the first wine growing area ever to be designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.
The town itself, situated 35km north east of Bordeaux, between Libourne and Castillon la Bataille, is quite simply the most picturesque, magnetic, wonderfully definitive place that a wine lover could ever wish to visit.
Historically, St Emilion owes its origin to the 8 th Century Breton monk Emilian, who arrived in the region to live and work at the Benedictine monastery there, eventually after 17 years becoming its bursar. Loved for his patience, forgiving nature and dedicated service, Emilian subsequently retired to live out the rest of his life as a hermit on a nearby wooded hillside, a natural amphitheatre, that ever since its first settlement has carried his name.
Today, after a very turbulent political history of warring, exploitation and repeated sackings, including a half-century of near un-inhabitation during the French Revolution, St Emilion now thrives from the liquid gold that is grown on the carpet of vines that drape the town like a green and golden mantle.
A mere 5,500 hectares (13,600 acres) of vineyards annually produce 36 million bottles of St Emilion wine, the Appellation being granted to the town itself and its eight related communes dotted nearby around the landscape. The vineyards are small, on average a mere seven hectares each and still mostly family owned, the region boasts an impressive 1200 of them!
In St Emilion, as elsewhere on Bordeaux's so-called right bank, the merlot grape is queen. Often regarded only as the softening balance to the mighty, power and structure of cabernet sauvignon, here the merlot is the dominant grape of the "cepage", typically 60% of the blend, the remainder being cabernet franc.
Merlot is a large somewhat brazenly luscious, fruity grape. It buds, flowers and ripens early; making spring frosts an occasional hazard to be contended with. Being thin-skinned also makes merlot prone to rot in very wet vintages, most notably in several of which that occurred in the 1960's. The thin skins provide fewer tannins but allow for greater sugar content, providing the basis for a well structured, supple and alcoholic wine.
St Emilion's other main grape variety, cabernet franc, known locally as "bouchet" has similarly languished in the shadow of cabernet sauvignon, although during the 1960's was the more widely planted. A fresh herbaceous character typifies this grape that although low in natural acidity and tannins, provides wonderful aromas of raspberry, violet and those unmistakeable pencil shavings essences that signify the best St Emilion.
Normally the lesser constituent of the blend, in those years when the Merlot is problematic, cabernet franc is able to take centre stage, often producing a wine of breed, quality and finesse.
In and around St Emilion, there are four different geological areas, often indefinably termed as "terroirs" that impart slightly differing nuances to the wines that are grown on them.
The most important is the limestone plateau upon which St Emilion is built. The vineyards planted here are the closest to the town and the most prestigious. Indeed eleven of the thirteen Premier Grand Crus are situated within the patchwork of tiny walled enclaves that huddle around the fortified walls of the town.
Falling away from the plateau is the "coteaux", a clay and limestone slope that on its south and south-eastern aspects also produces wine of great quality.
To the north of St Emilion, in the direction of the prestigious vineyards of Pomerol, lies a smaller terrace of clay and gravel upon which Chateau Figeac, and the illustrious Chateau Cheval Blanc, the remaining two Premier Grand Crus are situated.
Finally, the geological flood plain of the river Dordogne, a sandy, gravel-rich low-lying area, is the home to most of the generic, basic quality St Emilion vineyards.
The "Jurade", a council that has been in existence since the year 1199, undertakes the administration of all things wine in St Emilion. Historically, granted the privilege of collecting taxes for the clergy, administering the local government and commerce of the town, and the running of the local hospital, today the Jurade presides over the important calendar of the vinicultural and viticultural year.
On the third Sunday of June each year the "Fete du Printemps" is held to pronounce on and confirm the quality of the previous year's vintage. The colourfully robed Jurade walk the streets with much pomp and ceremony, eventually arriving at the church to give thanks for yet another successful vintage.
Similarly, on the third Sunday of September they celebrate the "Ban des Vendanges", announcing the banns, like those of a wedding, for the forthcoming start of the harvest. It is at this celebration that new members of the Brotherhood of the Jurade are inducted, empowering them to go forth to become ambassadors of St Emilion wine to the world at large.
Neither of these charismatic ceremonies nor their picturesque setting serves to overshadow the superb wine of St Emilion, which is rightly judged to be one of the finest in the world.
Whilst young, St Emilion is deceptively moorish and approachable, a characteristic of the fleshy sweetness of the merlot grape. Blackcurrant, blackberry, raspberry, vanilla, the aromas multiply to beguile the novice and tempt the connoisseur alike.
However, with ten years of careful cellarage, a different St Emilion emerges, a stately, gamey, polished wine of complex, subtle, balanced fruit. Maturity adds class to the wine that, whilst still a somewhat feminine, soft, full-bodied, ripely fruited flavour, displays an opulence admired by wine lovers the world over.
St Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classe
Premier Grand Cru Classe "A"
Chateau Ausone
Chateau Cheval Blanc
Premier Grand Cru Classe "B"
Chateau Angelus
Chateau Beausejour-Becot
Chateau Beausejour-Duffau Lagarosse
Chateau Belair
Chateau Canon
Chateau Clos Fourtet
Chateau Figeac
Chateau La Gaffeliere
Chateau Magdelaine
Chateau Pavie
Chateau Trottevieille
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