Become a real Rhone Ranger
Some of the best value, affordable wines, be they on a supermarket shelf or a restaurant wine list are those of the Cotes du Rhone. These ripe, juicy, often full-bodied red wines made predominantly from the Carignan grape backed up by the Syrah and Mourvedre varieties, hail from France's second largest vineyard region. Stretching from Lyon to the Mediterranean, over 80,000 hectares (180,000 acres) of vineyards provide grapes to make 414 million bottles of Cotes du Rhone a year, 90% of which are red wines.
This immense volume of wine is produced from 250 villages whose identity is prohibited by regional wine legislation from gracing the label on the bottle. This requirement of the 1966 Cotes du Rhone Appellation Controlee serves to protect the generic character of the region's produce, but does little to assist the wine lover bent on discovering those wines that are a cut above the norm.
In 1967 however, the newer Appellation of Cotes du Rhone Villages, sought to elevate the wines of a few villages that were justifiably recognised as being of a higher quality than the generic wine of the region. Today, those villages number sixteen, although seven are still perhaps, a cut above the rest.
I recently took a week-long tour of the area to unearth the best wines. My journey commenced to the south east of Montelimar, home to the delicious nougat industry, and followed a north to south itinerary toward Avignon.
In the 14 th Century the Pope, whilst taking a similar journey between Lyon and Avignon, rested at Valreas, and helped to restore himself by drinking the wine of the village. Distinguished since that time, the wine continues to win many accolades. Sandy limestone and shingle across the ample 214 hectare vineyards produce deep, violet coloured wines with redcurrant and raspberry aromas, and balanced lingering fruit flavours that ideally compliment roasted lamb or grilled wildfowl. (recommended Valreas; Domaine Perrin et Fils and Clos Petite Bellane).
The rambling vineyards around the village of Vinsobres were previously utilized for the area's feted olive groves, but now produce a robust, deep coloured red wine. Spicy aromas and powerful tannins help to form a big, full-bodied finish. Red meats, game and cheese should all complement this deceptively strong "sober wine". (recommended Vinsobres: Jerome Quiot and Domaine Jaume).
The commune of Visan, in the Department of Vaucluse, lies at the heart of the largest truffle-growing region in France. The wines are similarly imbued with the finest of evocative nuances. Clean garnet and violet colours and complex aromas of vanilla, blackcurrant and truffle produce an elegant but firm wine, to complement the exotic cuisine of the locality. (recommended Visan: Domaine Fourmente and Clos du Pere Clement).
Perhaps my personal favourite Cotes du Rhone Village is Cairanne, perched high in the Vaucluse, overlooking its lower red sandstone and skeletal pebbly vineyards (see main picture). In the middle ages both the Knights Templars and subsequently the Hospitaliers of St John of Jerusalem were benefactors of the vine.
Today wonderfully perfumed, robust and delicately tannic red wines are made here. Heavy, dense and purple colours surround peppery leather aromas leading onto full bodied, somewhat unctuous fruit flavours that seem to possess tremendous length on the finish. The locals (quite rightly in my view) term their lofty village the Throne of the Rhone. (recommended Cairanne: Catherine le Goeuil and Denis Alary).
The vineyards surrounding the village of Rasteau were once the largest in the region, and enjoyed a stronger reputation for fortified wines than table wines. The vineyards are planted on ancient gravel and clayey sand deposits left by the glacial contraction of the river Ouveze, all under the broken toothed stare of the craggy Dentelles de Montmirail. Rasteau is a brilliantly red wine, shiny, healthy in appearance with ripe, somewhat strong red fruits and vanilla aromas. Warm and generous in the mouth, the best vintages can be rewarded by keeping for 7-10 years. (recommended Rasteau: Domaine de Beaurenard).
Seguret, one of France's most beautiful listed villages, with its natural rock-hewn, seemingly impregnable balcony-like position, was one of the very first villages to create a Confrerie des Chevalier, in the 17 th Century, to celebrate and promote its wines. Continuing to lead the way, the Confrerie often offer free tastings in conjunction with the restaurants of the area, which I can imagine are both informative and tremendously convivial. Seguret is an intense ruby and cherry red colour with an obvious, almost showy, tobacco and almond tinged aroma. A likeable round flavour, especially after 2-3 years age will accompany almost all dishes of the regions rich palate of Provencal cooking. (recommended Seguret: Louis Bernard).
Adjoining the alluvial stone, gravel and shingle vineyards of the neighbouring and more prestigious Gigondas, the vineyards of Sablet only achieved the award of their own Cotes du Rhone Appellation as recently as 1974. However the village has quickly made its mark, and due its ready to drink, ripe fruited, rather honest, foursquare wines, has already become a firm favourite as an ideal partner to the local, unsophisticated cuisine. A dense garnet and cherry colour complement the hint of violet and blackcurrant from the bouquet. Spicier when aged, these robust, workman-like wines may well yet become some of the most widely appreciated, for their inherent suitability to many types of regional food. (recommended Sablet: Yves Gras).
The remaining nine villages (shown in panel) continue to strive for the recognition that has been hard won by those described above. However, another small but rapidly emerging area, situated a little further south than my original journey's end, Avignon, is that of Costieres de Nimes .
The geology of the area known as "gres" constitutes large smooth pebbles, tumbled by the mighty Rhone from pre-history's Mesozoic period. For me there are two stars in this Appellation.
Both Domaine Beauchene with its incredible "Cuvee Numa" at St Gilles, and Chateau de Nages in nearby Caissargues and their "Cuvee Joseph Torres" are testament to the future potential of this exciting new addition to the Rhone family of wines.
With Provence becoming ever more prohibitively expensive for a holiday, and let's face it, the wines there are at best just OK, why not consider a tour of the Cotes du Rhone for yourself. Culturally rich with sites like the Pont du Gard and Palais des Papes at Avignon, the Roman Theatre at Orange and the Arena in Nimes, together with the wonderfully diverse cuisine all drawn from local produce, creating one's own gourmet food and wine tour is a piece of cake. The region is still undiscovered from the UK's point of view, so go on, be a real Rhone Ranger.
The other 9 named Cotes du Rhone Villages are;
Rousset-les Vignes
St Pantaleon-les-Vignes
St Maurice
Roaix
Rochegude
St Gervais
Chusclan
Laudun
Beaumes de Venise
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